Sad as Hell

Human Rights Education: A Seminar organized by the Asia-Europe Foundation, hosted by the Norwegian Ministry of Foreign Affairs, in Tromsø, 4-6 November 2019

Photo: Bonne Journal

The Asia-Europe Foundation (ASEF) has several platforms of which the Seminar is but one. ASEF organizes the gathering of Foreign Ministers of the 51 member states (in Spain next month, December) and Heads of State (in Cambodia next year, November 2020, of which a new convention center is being built to host it). The next seminar platform of government officials/diplomats, academics and civil society (the one I’ve been involved in) will be in Zurich next year.

Our Host: Majestic Norway (Ministry of Foreign Affairs)

The map of Norway is unbelievable to me. Look closely at its coastline and fjords. I was fortunate to have a window seat from Oslo to Tromsø (in Troms county) and had my face glued to the window the last half of the almost 2 hr flight. The weather was clear, crisp. Breathtaking. Geologically, a fjord is a long, narrow inlet with steep sides or cliffs, created by a glacier.

IT ALL COMES DOWN TO LEADERSHIP:

A country of 5 million people. With stunning but harsh terrain and extreme weather. The most expensive country on the planet (yes, more so than Switzerland as told me by Swiss diplomat Sandra Lendenmann -- always painful to travel from a Third World country to a First World one in terms of purchasing power--I can't afford anything!--but oh, the added pain when it's the bottom of the Third World to the first of the First World). Occupied by Nazi Germany; territory taken by the Soviet Union inexplicably given back. FREE tuition, even for the foreign students. FREE healthcare. A friend’s 10-year-old (adopted) daughter recently had minor surgery. The specialist was in another city, Stavanger, across the country from Oslo: Norway paid for all the expenses, including her and her husband’s travel and accommodation.

Click on image to view more stunning scenes of Tromso

Photos: Espen Rikter-Svendsen

Preparation

Shopping for Tromsø, the northernmost city on the planet, in the Arctic where Rudolph lives. The Paris of the Arctic. Now, I only shop when I need something very specific, like a warm hat to keep the heat from my body escaping. So surprised that the Russian Market STILL has LOTS of winter wear; yes, 20 years ago when the weather here often dropped to 65 degree F (during our "winter" of December to February) and Cambodians were riding around completely bundled up in ski gear.

No, I didn’t get this hat (vanity), which I may regret; I think what I already have -- a hood of a sweater and warm scarf -- will do. - Phnom Penh, 28 Oct. 2019

En route to Tromso. 9-Fingers Campaign

Playtime

On my walking way to the Arctic Cathedral for its Memorial Service. Tromsø, 3 Nov. 2019

I was delayed in Frankfurt Airport and feared that I wouldn't make it in time for this Memorial Service. But Fortune smiled on me: I had the 30 minutes needed to make it there on foot from the Clarion Hotel The Edge. On the way, I even had a nice conversation with a longtime resident of Tromso who kindly walked me all the way to the beginning of the bridge. I was undaunted by the biting brisk wind as I crossed the bridge, excited by the novelty of it all and encouraged by the glowing cross of the Cathedral up ahead. I took a seat in the very back of the congregation; no one blinked that an obvious stranger joined them, the only Asian among a white, mostly blond and brunette congregation, what one would expect. There were candles everywhere, with larger ones at stations of remembrance at the corners of the sanctuary and up front. At least 100 fresh roses of different colors stood in buckets in the middle of the sanctuary which at various times the members picked up and laid at the remembrance stations, guided by the pastor, a woman in flowing heavy white robe. On several occasions, I was tempted to snap a few photos on my iPhone but thankfully had enough sense not to do it. I did, however, as subtly  and unobtrusive as possible, filmed a short video clip of the choir singing (click on image to watch). It was only scheduled for one hour in the public announcement, but the actual program went an extra half hour longer. The robed female pastor joined by a man in a suit took turn reading names of all those who died within 2019, 3-4 names at a time, slowly and reverently, lighting a long candle on a candelabra for all to see, after doing so each time. As I was sitting in the last row, I looked back on several occasions at the sparkling Tromso island where the city center is situated. The back side of the cathedral is glass thus allowing for the glorious panoramic view of the island and bridge joining the mainland with the city center. (Norway is a very egalitarian society: the Prime Minister, the Minister of Foreign Affairs are women... and these 2 robed female pastors, the other one toward the end officiated Communion bread and wine to those who wanted them.)

Postcards from Tromsø

Tromso, 4 Nov. 2017: Taking in the wintry charm of the city center (on an island) on foot before walking across the bridge again to the cable car, Fjellheisen, on the mainland, to go up the mountain for the spectacular view of all of Tromsø. Once across, I walked through the most charming neighborhood to get to the Fjellheisen cable car for a lift up! Literally taking in the ethereal surrounding with the 5 senses without the dividing screen of an enclosure and at an absorbable, memorable pace. Walking provides a different perspective altogether. However, I took the bus back to the city center because by the time I walked around the mountaintop, my toes and fingers were all numbed!

What I wore today (Nov. 4) as ONE OUTFIT in addition to tights and 3 pairs of socks: a turtleneck, hooded sweatshirt, quilted vest, 2 wool scarves, yoga pants over the tights and then jeans, 2 pairs of gloves, the leather pair lined. Knee-length suede boots. Mink, leather jacket (thank my godmom Marge for this—it got me through law school in Michigan winter). And I was still frozen and numbed after walking around up the top of the mountain!

Serious-time

Day 1 (Nov. 4)

Norwegian Minister of Foreign Affairs — such an impressive woman! Currently leading the largest ministry in Norway of some 800 diplomats/officials/admins in Oslo and some dozens more in overseas missions. Prior to being Foreign Minister, HE Søreide was Minister of Defense. Here, she is a powerful, steely, substantive keynote address delivered with charm and grace which I could have listened for another hour. I was so encouraged by it as you feel like she genuinely believed what she is saying and that it was not a perfunctory speech. Kudos to the speechwriter and to the Minister for the message!

Ambassador Warnecke of the Asia-Europe Foundation (based in Singapore)

Cocktail party hosted by Norwegian Foreign Ministry

Day 2 (Nov. 5)

Arctic University of Norway

(L) 9-Fingers Campaign. (R) We are two Cambodians in Tromsø!

Rudolph's Country

I am so sorry to inform all of you, but I have met Rudolph (and Dasher, Dancer, Prancer, Vixen and the others) and they look nothing like what we've been told in our childhood. So sorry ;(

In Rudolph (Reindeer) Country — at the Sámi camp in Troms, Norway (a 20-min drive from the city center of Tromsø (the “Arctic capital" or "Paris of the Arctic"), the northernmost city with a university on the planet, 350km north of the Arctic Circle. Here, at a cultural event to visit with the indigenous Sámi people, reindeer herders, who go way back (as early as 10,000 years ago according to archaeological findings, which UNESCO only now is considering recognizing as a heritage site). In present day Norway, the Sámi people (those who have not acculturated into Norwegian life but are in reindeer husbandry) total 3,000, tending to about 200,000 reindeer (including Rudolph, Dasher, Dancer, Prancer and Vixen). I am one about 100 participants in Tromsø for a human rights seminar organized by the Asia-Europe Foundation (based in Singapore) for diplomats, gov’t / UN officials, academics, and civil society. Impeccably, graciously hosted by the Norwegian Foreign Ministry. I got to feed these very friendly Arctic animals. But they were not so friendly with each other, using their antlers to nudge the weaker ones out of the way of food. Bullying! (They may need a reindeer rights seminar on this topic.)

(L) With Christina Henriksen, vice-president of the Sámi Council. Christina lives near the Russian border where temperatures regularly drop to -40 degree Celsius (yes, MINUS FORTY!) and for 2 months from end of November to mid January, it is dark — no sunshine — 24 hours per day -- YES, 24 hours TIMES 60 days of CONTINUOUS DARKNESS. My friend Anne who grew up in Tromsø said the air smells differently when it gets that cold. I believe it! Everything would be differently when it's THAT cold! (It's just the opposite during the summer months: approx. 60 days TIMES 24 hrs of continuous sunshine)

(R) Our very funny Sámi host. We’re at his camp, in Troms, Norway.

With the amazing Iulia of the Asia-Europe Foundation in Singapore, Nina of Australia, and Helena from the Norwegian Foreign Ministry, our awesome host. At the Sámi camp in Troms, Norway, some 350km north of the Arctic Circle. More images here.

Reindeer Stew for dinner at the Sámi camp

Day 3 (Nov. 6)

Plausible Deniability

The very grandfatherly Chinese ambassador moderated the closing session where the rapporteurs of the 3 working groups (from our day at the University of Tromsø the day before—we did get some work in despite my posting of images of fun all the time!) reported to the plenary. He started by reading exhaustively, SLOWLY the biography of each rapporteur. Until he was gently, diplomatically recommended that it was unnecessary as each bio is already available to the participants. Then he started again with reading the bio of the 3rd rapporteur. After only a few minutes of Q&A of which we were allotted ample time, he cut off the session, saying that it’s time for lunch! Until the participants grumbled and protested pointing to the program schedule. PLAUSIBLE DENIABILITY: A sweet-looking, grandfatherly man who naturally reads slowly, is confused about the schedule, and just wants his lunch and some rest. OR, a shrewd Chinese representative who fears the topic (human rights education!) and its implications and the exchanges with the respectful but outspoken participants. Plausible deniability. I had met him last year and even sat at a table over dinner with him and his diplomatic official last year in Yogyakarta. And again this year at Full Steam Restaurant. And find him interesting. Oh, China!

The ever didactic, professorial Prof. Vitit of Thailand makes an intervention during the Closing Plenary.

Panel on the Indigenous Sámi People

Lighthearted Moment

Caviar

Until Tromsø, I hated caviar (and foie gras). Ask my French relatives, who (some of my most favorite people, several of them independently) would bring me caviar (and foie gras) whenever they visited Cambodia. And each time I would either strongly insist they give it to someone else who would enjoy it or I’d pass it on myself. I’m not one to pretend to like something solely for its status (most of the time, anyway; with the understanding that some are acquired tastes, ex., pungent smelling cheese (Roquefort!) or Prahok — both I absolutely LOVE, if prepared well, clean). But then came our last dinner in Tromsø at Full Steam Restaurant on the harbor, a 7-minute walk in the brisk (0-degree C) air from our hotel, The Edge, also on the harbor. One of Tromsø’s best, but more interestingly, it’s also like a fish museum. Before dinner, the owner gave us a fascinating presentation on caviars, fish preservation, fish cheeks/tongues, how to drink cod’s oil. Back to the caviars: there are at least a million eggs (or several millions?) in each of the palm-sized pink slab which he sliced open to demonstrate for us. Oh, I’m convinced about caviars now!

Everything Cod (and Salmon!)

Drying Fish

Mack Brewery but no Northern Lights ;(

Farewell, Tromso!

(L) Oslo, 8 Nov. 2019: This airport hotel didn’t have smoked salmon (which I thought I had already consumed enough for the next decade, but evidently one can never ever get enough of Norwegian smoked salmon), so I ordered this for dinner instead. (I had salmon EVERDAY for breakfast at the upscale Clarion Hotel The Edge on the harbor.)

Look who came to see me at the Oslo airport at such short notice?! Soon-to-be Dr. Anne! The last time I saw Anne was some years ago when we were sipping wine on the Mekong. Anne’s childhood home was Tromsø.

Arrived in Bangkok from Oslo very early this Nov. 9 morning, after my itinerary was rerouted and delayed by half a day due to Lufthansa crew strike. See 9-Fingers Campaign.